Vero Profumo Rozy – La rosa tatuada

foto: Emma Livingston

foto: Emma Livingston

Durante los meses previos a su lanzamiento en Esxence, Vero Kern estimuló la curiosidad de sus devotos admiradores con imágenes que transmitían sensaciones relacionadas con la nueva fragancia: rosas purpúreas,  casi negras;capullos convirtiéndose en cenizas; Dame Barbara Cartland; (el artista anteriormente conocido como) Prince y, finalmente, Anna Magnani, a quien este perfume homenajea.

Cuando nos encontramos el último mes de julio, la Srta. Kern me había  contado que el extrait sería una rosa muy oscura -si bien no literal- y  que el eau de parfum tendría un aspecto más rosado, pero eso era todo lo que yo sabía al respecto. Frívolo, iridiscente, aterciopelado y erótico eran algunos de los adjetivos que flotaban en el aire. De acuerdo con la tradición de Vero Profumo, la nueva creación recibió un nombre de cuatro letras: Rozy.

Rozy hace un guiño a ciertos grandes clásicos y no es tan “rosado” como su nombre permitiría suponer, así que aquellos que no tienen una afición especial por las rosas podrían disfrutarlo también. Ambos eau de parfum and voile d’extrait son complejos y dinámicos.

Rozy Eau de Parfum es definitivamente digno de Lolita: todo duraznos y crema, rosas y satén rosado.Me recuerda un poco a Nahéma pero Nahéma es caleidoscópico, mientras que Rozy es iridiscente y mucho más sutil; como una acuarela opuesta a la densa pintura al óleo de Nahéma. Un delicado velo aldehídico cubre una rosa aduraznada que, en el transcurso de las horas, se desvanece en una estela de polvo de sándalo. Coqueto, provocativo y tentador, prácticamente me obliga a pestañear con la velocidad de las alas de un colibrí.

Rozy Voile d’Extrait es una mujer con pasado. Es rosas y transpiración y cigarrillos y sexo. El característico olor frutado-urinoso de los bourgeons de cassis en la salida trae a la mente a los gatos que Magnani tanto adoraba. La rosa aquí está mezclada magistralmente con una tuberosa de excelente calidad (estoy casi segura de que es el mismo absoluto de tuberosa que la Srta. Kern usó en Mito).  Algo crudo y primitivo acecha por debajo de este exterior sofisticado; quizás el aroma de la fruta muy madura, nectarina y casi pasada, como la que Edmond Roudnitska hizo brillar en Femme, Diorella y Le Parfum de Thérèse. Pero Diorella y Thérèse parecen castos en comparación y sólo la versión vintage de Femme podría competir con la aplomada sensualidad de Rozy. La rosa y la tuberosa cobran progresivamente tonalidades de miel hasta que la sensación acuerada del cistus, como una voz ronca, manifiesta su presencia.

El mejor elogio para Rozy vino de parte de mi marido quien -cansado de que le pida su opinión sobre cada perfume que pruebo- desarrolló dos respuestas standard que alterna aleatoriamente: “jabonoso” y “atalcado”. Cuando le pedí que por favor probara Rozy, exclamó “¡Es muy Anna Magnani!”.

Caro

Origen de las muestras: Muestras gentileza de Campomarzio 70

foto: Toutceciestmagnifique.com  fotógrafo: John Phillips  Anna magnani, Roma, 1947

foto: Toutceciestmagnifique.com    fotógrafo: John Phillips   Anna Magnani, Roma, 1947

Vero Profumo Rozy – The rose tattoo

During the months prior to its launching at Esxence,Vero Kern kept teasing her devout admirers with images that conveyed the feel of the upcoming  fragrance: blackish purple roses, blooms turning to ashes, Dame Barbara Cartland, (the artist formerly known as) Prince and, finally, Anna Magnani,to whom this perfume pays tribute.

When we met last July, Ms. Kern had told me the extrait would be a very dark -although not literal- rose and the eau de parfum  would be pinkier in appearance, but that was all I knew about it. Frivolous, iridescent, velvety and erotic were some of the adjectives that floated around. In accordance to the Vero Profumo tradition, the new creation received a four letter name: Rozy. Rozy nods at some of the great classics and it is not as rosy as its name might suggest, so those who are not especially fond of roses might enjoy it too. Both eau de parfum and voile d’extrait are complex and dynamic.

Rozy Eau de Parfum is definitely Lolita-esque: all peaches and cream, pink satin and roses. It reminds me a bit of Nahéma but whereas Nahéma is kaleidoscopic, Rozy is iridescent and much more subtle; like a watercolor opposed to Nahéma’s dense oil. A delicate aldehydic veil covers a peachy rose which, over the course of hours, fades into a trail of sandalwood dust. Flirty, provocative and enticing, it almost forces me to bat my eyelashes at the speed of hummingbird wings.

Rozy Voile d’Extrait is a woman with a past. It’s roses and sweat and cigarettes and sex. The characteristic fruity-urinous smell of the bourgeons de cassisin the openingbrings to mindthe cats Magnani adoreded so much. Rose is here masterfully blended with a tuberose of excellent quality (I am almost sure it is the same tuberose absolute Ms. Kern used in Mito).  Something very raw and primal lurks underneath the sophisticated exterior; perhaps the scent of overripe fruits, nectarous and just past its prime, like the ones Edmond Roudnitska made shine in Femme, Diorella and Le Parfum de Thérèse. But Diorella and Thérèse seem chaste in comparison and only vintage Femme could compete with Rozy‘s  mature sensuality. The rose and tuberose become progressively honeyed until the leathery feel of labdanum, much like a raspy voice, manifests its presence.

The best compliment for Rozy came from my  husband, who -tired of my asking his opinion on every single fragrance I  try- has  developed two standard answers which he randomly alternates: “soapy” and “powdery”. When I asked him to please sniff Rozy, he declared “This is totally Anna Magnani!”.

Caro

Origin of sample: samples courtesy of Campomarzio 70

 

13 responses to “Vero Profumo Rozy – La rosa tatuada

  1. Thanks for your impressions Caro!
    I tried Rozy when I was at Esxence in Milan. I was invited to the exhibition “perfume on canvas” organized by Campomarzio 70 and Rozy was there, so was Vero Kern 😉
    I think I liked the perfume although my nose was pretty tired there, after a whole day of excessive smelling.
    I really don’t remember now how it smelled like… Will have to revisit.

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  2. I loved reading your comparisons of the EDP and the Voile d’Extrait – they seem to both have a very sensual, voluptuous quality to them, and now I really must try them tout suite!

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    • Hi, dear Vagabond!
      Both versions seem to have the erotic quality so present in Vero Kern’s creations, only the EdP is slightly (only slightly) more innocent.
      I will be happy to read your impressions when you try them.
      Cheers,

      Caro

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      • Aha, based on descriptions I have a feeling I will fall for the Voile d’Extrait harder. After all I did end up going for Rubj EDP, which was more erotic with its cumin and the Onda EDP, which is as dirty as can be. Oh, my poor, poor wallet!

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      • I guess you will have an easier time wearing the VdE.
        Let me join your “my poor, poor wallet” lament 🙂

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  3. What can I say? I want both, indeed I will get both, but first for me is the EdP. (If I don’t get the two together 😜). I like to think of us sniffing together. Lovely thoughts. Bussis.

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    • Thank you, Val!

      For me the voile (or perhaps the extrait) will come first as it was love at first sniff, but your bordello comment has convinced me to go for the EdP too 😉

      Besitos,

      Caro

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      • cookie queen

        Although related, they are both so different. It took me a few days, but the EdP is just wonderful. I too love the Voile, but that is some strong stuff. The EdP I can spray with abandon and it settles down to a sensuous veil. Voile – veil, yes I know, but to me the EdP is the veil!! In the end, who cares?? Noting wrong with having both of them!! xxx

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      • This Vero will make me go bankrupt, you know?
        I guess I will transfer my life savings directly to her account.

        Liked by 1 person

  4. You make me want to run to test the Voile. Sultry and sexy… I love it! Great reviews!

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  5. Pingback: 10 rosas que aportan calor al invierno | Té de Violetas

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