foto: Poetschke.de
La palabra “nardo” designa a dos plantas muy distintas: la tuberosa (Polianthes Tuberosa) y el espicanardo (Nardostachis Jatamansi), que es el nardo que se menciona en la Biblia. El perfil olfativo de ambas plantas no podría ser más distinto. La tuberosa -con la que estamos familiarizados- prodiga un aroma floral, soleado y persistente; éste presenta matices alcanforados antes de volverse dulce y narcótico. El espicanardo, en cambio, es especiado, almizclado y terroso. Hoy ponemos el foco en la tuberosa, planta originaria de América y que los primeros habitantes de lo que hoy es México ya cultivaban.
En mi búsqueda de la tuberosa perfecta encontré perfumes que subliman la flor de distintas maneras. Están las que pertenecen al salón de baile y las flores ofrecidas por vendedores callejeros; algunas dibujan una modernidad depurada mientras otras exaltan su carácter tropical.
El texto iluminado corresponde a aquellos perfumes que ya hemos reseñado.
Piguet Fracas La tuberosa de referencia fue creada por Germaine Cellier en 1948 y se mantiene vigente sesenta y tantos años más tarde. Recomiendo con énfasis la versión parfum -que es más opulenta y suave- en lugar del más atalcado eau de parfum.
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle Arte y alquimia en uno: una salida mentolada,casi siniestra da paso a una bella tuberosa. Funciona a las mil maravillas en quien sea suficientemente femme fatale para llevarlo.
Roja Parfums Scandal Pour Femme Este enorme floral no tiene que ver con la innovación, sino con la belleza y calidad. Si Fracas y Fantasia de Fleurs tuvieran una criatura angelical, le enseñaran modales impecables y lo enviaran a los mejores colegios, sería así.
Honoré des Pres Vamp a NY Un dulce perfume tropical compuesto exclusivamente con materias primas de origen orgánico. La nariz Olivia Giacobetti sumó notas de ron y vainilla que prestan a la tuberosa un aire coqueto y despreocupado.
Arquiste Flor y Canto Esta interpretación es tan realista que casi pueden sentirse una docena de varas de tuberosa ante uno. Aquí el tagetes y el copal blanco añaden frescura a la tuberosa. Su longevidad es un poco débil, pero es la única desventaja que encuentro en una fragancia absolutamente hermosa.
Amouage Honour Woman Ligeramente acuoso y casi liviano, Honour es como un haiku escrito a la manera de Amouage.
Bruno Acampora Blu Este aceite de color azul logra representar la voluptuosidad de la flor sin el dulzor que usualmente se asocia con ella.
Ramón Monegal Perfumes Kiss my Name Una tuberosa enorme y moderna, tan lustrosa como un edificio construido en acero y cristal.
Mona di Orio Tubereuse Una interpretación tan delicada que susurra: verde, lechosa y casi opalescente; una tuberosa por la mañana.
Tableau de Parfums Loretta Andy Tauer ha creado una tuberosa enigmática condimentada con canela, clavo de olor, cuero y patchouli que resulta perfecta para una heroína de film noir.
No incluí en la lista al admirado Editions de Parfums Carnal Flower simplemente porque no es uno de mis favoritos. Creo, de todas maneras, que los amantes de la tuberosa deberían probarlo.
Caro
foto: Aromatherapy-essentials.com
Scent of tuberoses – 10 faces of the flower
In Spanish the word “nardo” designates two very different plants: tuberose(Polianthes Tuberosa) and spikenard (Nardostachis Jatamansi), which is the nardo mentioned on the Bible. The olfactory profile of both plants couldn’t be more different.Tuberose -which we are more acquainted with- gives out a sunny, floral, persistent scent; sweet and narcotic with camphorated undertones. Spikenard, in turn, is spicy, musky and earthy. Today we focus on tuberose, a plant native to America which was already cultivated by the early inhabitants of Mexico.
In my quest for the perfect tuberose I found fragrances which sublimate the flower in a myriad ways. There are those which belong in the ballroom and the flowers offered by Street vendors; some of them draw a streamlined modernity while others exalt their tropical character.
The highlighted text corresponds to fragrances we have already reviewed.
Piguet Fracas The reference tuberose was created by Germaine Cellier in 1948 and still going strong sixty-something years later. I emphatically recommend the parfum version -which is richer and smoother- instead of the more powdery eau de parfum.
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle Art and alchemy in one: a mentholated, almost sinister opening gives way to a beautiful tuberose. It works like a charm on those who are enough of a femme fatale to wear it.
Roja Parfums Scandal Pour Femme This big floral is not about innovation but beauty and quality. If Fracas and Fantasia de Fleurs had an angelic child, taught it impeccable manners and sent it to the best schools, this would be it.
Honoré des Pres Vamp a NY A sweet tropical fragrance made exclusively with raw materials of organic origin. Nose Olivia Giacobetti added notes of rum and vanilla which lend the tuberose a flirty and nochalant air.
Arquiste Flor y Canto A rendition so realistic one can almost feel a dozen tuberose stems before her. Here, marigold and white copal add freshness to tuberose. Its longevity might be a bit weak but it is the only drawback I find in an absolutely beautiful fragrance.
Amouage Honour Woman Slightly watery and almost lightweight, Honour is like a haiku written in the style of Amouage.
Bruno Acampora Blu This blue colored oil manages to represent the voluptuousness of the flower without the sweetness usually associated with it
Ramón Monegal Perfumes Kiss my Name A big, modern tuberose, as sleek as a building made of steel and glass.
Mona di Orio Tubereuse A rendition so delicate it whispers: green, milky and almost opalescent; a tuberose in the morning.
Tableau de Parfums Loretta Andy Tauer has created an enigmatic tuberose, spiced up with cinnamon, cloves, leather and patchouli which seems perfect for a film noir heroine.
I have not included the much admired Editions de Parfums Carnal Flower simply because it’s not a personal favorite. However, I think it is a must-sample for tuberose lovers.
Caro
Té de Violetas 
I really want to try the Bruno Acampora! I’ve heard some great things about it. As for Loretta, I had great difficulty with the scent — and I adore tuberose without problem, usually. But, on me, Loretta was all bubble gum and grape with tuberose, due to some crazy sub-part of the indoles, the methyl salicate. It was not… fun. 😦 And let’s not bring up the patchouli part of it, after my recent experience with that note. 😉 😛
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Hi, dear Kafka!
Loretta took me a long, long time to like. I’ve had my sample for over a year and I was so entranced with Une Rose Chypree and Une Rose Vermeille I didn’t pay a lot of attention to it. Besides, the opening is a little grape-juice-ish, but I have come to enjoy its spices and leather and am liking it very very much.
The Bruno Acampora was suggested to me by Jelly, the knowledgeable lady at Farmacia Centrale in Milan, as “non dolce”. It shares a certain drydown with all the other Bruno Acampora oils
Even though I think it won’t be “you”, Vamp à NY is lovely and so is Flor y Canto. I find those two more casual than the others.
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I think that from your list of favorite tuberoses RM Kiss my Name is the one that I like the most. Least favorite one is definitely SL Tuberose Criminelle
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Hi, Lucas!
Thank you for stopping by.
If I had to name one from the list, Scandal is the one I wear most often.
I’d like to get a bottle of the very pretty Flor y Canto some day.
Cheers,
Caro
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Genial tu post Caro!.
Añadiría un nardo que me parece muy conseguido: Do Son de Diptyque. Lo tengo en perfume sólido, y es una joyita. Besos!
Irene
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Hola Irene!
Muchas gracias por tu aporte.
Estoy tratando de probar la versión extrait de Mito, de Vero Profumo, donde se cambia el jazmín del eau de parfum por absoluto de tuberosa.
Qué placer poder descubrir más opciones!
Un beso,
Caro
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