Téo Cabanel Alahine – Flores de oro

foto: Theanglocatholic.com

foto: Theanglocatholic.com

Para fines del siglo XIX, las esencias y extraits de mouchoirs (perfumes para pañuelo) de Théodore Cabanel ya tenían una clientela leal entre los sectores más elegantes de Argel. En 1908 Cabanel se mudó nuevamente a París donde su reputación continuó creciendo. Unos años más tarde, la casa -ahora bajo la guía de la hija de Cabanel– se convirtió en la preferida de Wallis Simpson.

En 2003, una muy joven Carolina Ilacqua -ahijada de la hija de Théodore Cabanel decidió revivir la casa con la colaboración del nariz Jean-Francois Latty (creador entre otros de Eau Dynamisante, Jazz, Tsar y Drakkar Noir). La marca emplea hoy un alto porcentaje de materias primas naturales a la vez que mantiene sus perfumes dentro de un estilo clásico y muy elegante.

Cuando nuestra amiga bloguera Kafka se ofreció a enviarme una muestra de Alahine, no pude rehusarme.  Mi única aproximación a Téo Cabanel hasta el momento había sido un olisqueo veloz de Oha (un hermoso chipre de rosa) en Farmacia Centrale, en Milán.

Alahine me resultó extrañamente familiar al principio hasta que me di cuenta por qué…me recordaba a Bal a Versailles, sólo que sin la incivilizada nota animal que a veces lo vuelve difícil de usar. Kafka me había dicho que tuviera paciencia con Alahine y le diera tiempo, lo que hice obedientemente. Cada vez que lo usaba, Alahine se volvía más y más irresistible. El que me había parecido un ámbar clásico y monolítico más, empezó a desplegar sus misterios.

Ámbar licoroso con chispeante bergamota en la salida, Alahine es cálido y envolvente, un perfume generoso.  Notas luminosas de azahar, rosa búlgara, jazmín  e ylang ylang brillan como las piedras de una corona, la sensación es como si estas flores flotaran en un líquido dorado y dulzón (el azahar, que suma frescura al atalcado ámbar, es especialmente bello). El fondo aterciopelado, por momentos casi ahumado -donde notas amaderadas de sándalo y patchouli se entremezclan con vainilla y benjuí– es verdaderamente de ensueño.

Caro

Origen de la muestra: Muestra gentileza de nuestra colega bloguera Kafka

foto: Teo-cabanel.com

foto: Teo-cabanel.com

Téo Cabanel Alahine – Gold flowers

By the end of the XIXth century, Théodore Cabanel‘s essences and extraits de mouchoirs (handkerchief’s scents) already had a loyal following among the fashionable set in Algiers. In 1908 Cabanel moved back to Paris where his reputation continued to grow. Some years later the house -now under the guidance of Cabanel‘s daughter- became the favorite of Wallis Simpson.

In 2003, a very young Carolina Ilacqua -goddaughter of Théodore Cabanel‘s daughter- decided to resurrect the house with the collaboration of nose Jean-Francois Latty (creator among others of Eau Dynamisante, Jazz, Tsar and Drakkar Noir). The brand today uses a high percentage of natural raw materials while keeping their fragrances classic in style and very elegant.

When fellow blogger Kafka offered to send me a sample of Alahine a few weeks ago, I couldn’t refuse.  My only approach to Téo Cabanel had, so far, been a brief sniffing of Oha (a beautiful rosy chypre) at Farmacia Centrale in Milan.

Alahine seemed strangely familiar at first until it dawned on me…it reminded me of Bal a Versailles, only lacking the impolite animalic notes that sometimes render BaV so difficult to wear. Kafka had told me to be patient with Alahine it and give it time, which I obediently did. With each successive wearing, Alahine became more and more compelling. What had appeared like yet another classic and monolythic amber started to unfold its mysteries before me.

A boozy amber with sparkling bergamot in the opening, Alahine is warm and enveloping, a generous perfume.  Luminous notes of  orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, jasmine and ylang ylang shine like gems in a crown; it feels as if the flowers floated in a golden sweetish liquid (the orange blossom which adds freshness to the powdery amber is especially beautiful). The velvety  drydown, at times almost smoky -where woody notes of sandalwood and patchouli mingle with vanilla and benzoin– is truly dreamy.

Caro

Origin of sample: Sample courtesy of fellow blogger Kafka

9 responses to “Téo Cabanel Alahine – Flores de oro

  1. ::::::::: Jumps up and down ::::::::::::::
    ::::::::::::: dances around and around ::::::::::::::
    ::::::::::::::::::::: laughs with joy and opens a bottle of champagne :::::::::::::::

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    • Er…. sorry, I had to get that out of my system. I’m telling you, there is an actual Alahine Syndrome — you start off thinking it’s okay (if you don’t hate it outright) and then, slowly, slowly, she sinks her hooks into you until you wonder how you never saw it from the start! The delicate, feminine, but creamy (and dreamy) drydown that you described is so lovely. Truly, Bal à Versailles without the skank and raunchy notes. But, honestly, my favorite part will always be that super boozy, super spiced opening. It’s not most people’s favorite, but my GOD, the booziness makes something like Guerlain’s SDV look like water. And the spices — the endless spices — are right out of a Moroccan souk.

      God, I’m so happy you like it. Welcome to the club of die-hard Alahine fanatics. We’re small, thanks to how few people know about the scent, but we’re damn obsessed. 😉

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      • Ok, I didn’t hate it outright but I thought “Is this what it is all about?”…and then, with each subsequent wearing, I liked it more and more. I can only imagine the gorgeousness of spraying this with abandon…my next mission: to get my hands on a full bottle.
        Pity you didn’t like Oha. I remember being very favorably impressed by it.

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  2. I absolutely cannot wait to try this!!!!!!!!!

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  3. I am saving this lovely sample for a rainy day when I need a pick me up from gloom and doom! I think I am already predisposed to love it! Plus the bottle is so pretty. That bow is darn-tootin’ cute! Thanks for the great review!

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    • Thank you, Baconbiscuit!
      I had been wanting to try it for a long time and now I’ve fallen under its spell. The quality is excellent and the price reasonable.
      The only drawback I see is that it is not too easily available…oh, well…more exclusive!
      xoxo

      Caro

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  4. Pingback: Carta a Papá Noel | Té de Violetas

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